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Balenciaga Spring 2015 RTW

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8 p.m. sharp. Palais de Tokyo. Paris Fashion Week Day 1. What other best way to get the shows rolling other than with the house of Balenciaga? Known for his former masterpieces at the Big Apple, a blend of both sport and street, Alexander Wang has been undoubtedly refreshed the house of Balenciaga. Under the contemporary glass and grid work runway encasing a swirling cold-ice fog, Wang was fairly down-to-earth in worshipping Cristòbel and Ghesquière’s eternal couture traces to the collection. However, that is only part of the story. It would not be a Wang creation if it were not incorporated by a slight (or a fair amount, in all honesty) of sport and street, as he was recently in Paris witnessing the cycling glory, la Tour de France. As an army of Balenciaga ladies stormed down, Wang’s love of modernism, black and couture sportswear was a heartbeat stopping performance; with Cristòbel’s fondness of volume, Ghesquière’s love of high-tech fabrics, Wang’s Matrix-esque ensembles were smoke-troopers of the season.

Sporty. No romance. The meticulous cutting of black jumpsuits with embellished pockets and the fluidity of an endlessly lengthy overcoats seemed at a glance a replica of a Balenciaga balloon jacket seen through a Matrix movie prism, were a reminder of the house’s expertise. Jumpsuits, short suits in sheer sleeves, halter necks and high tech mesh: these were Wang’s representation of a modern take on cocktail dressing. The fast-tracked movement of expression was seen through the clamping of footwear, almost as though they were built to be pedals. Lean athletic and embroidery was key to Wang – tight-hugging pants, jet-beaded black T-shirt with lattice-patterned ribbon and the diamond patterned sporty motif. The only visible authentication of womenswear was the pastel sectioned of the collection.

As each show proceeded in the hands of Alexander Wang, it’s been nothing but a positive input to the French house’s archive and foundation. He may lack a few romantic soul elements, iconic of the house, yet Wang’s track is one that has kept the industry intrigued with Balenciaga – “La Tour de Wang à la Balenciaga”. (Text Nadilla Sari Ratman)

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