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Michael van der Ham Spring 2015 RTW

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Michael van der Ham presented a sweet and romantic side for his spring/summer 2015 collection at the Topshop Show Space for the London Fashion Week. The designer, who dedicated his spring collection to the late Central Saint Martins’ fashion professor Louise Wilson, demonstrated his craftsmanship skills on dresses and separates using a sophisticated collage of fabrics that were sometimes layered to create asymmetric silhouettes.

The defining silhouette, an A-line shift that fell to the knee, gave a tight focus for his mixed-media experimentations. Nowadays he’s finding more subtle ways to incorporate his signature patchwork.  The new looks are filled with fun prints, smart tailoring and a combination of textures. For example, The translucent, burnout-like puddles in the fabric had a flattering effect on the body. Then foggy gowns were embellished with patches of lace and fil coupe that resembled lovely little creatures. Hand-beading and embroidery abounded, as did floral motifs. Van der Ham also indulged in a creative directions on making a black-and-white tweed shorts with an abstract-print blue blouse and macramé coat. Similarly, when he transformed denim and Lurex jacquard into a full, high-waisted knee-length skirt and a flouncy sleeveless dress.

Michael van der Ham was quite intentional from the beginning. He really did offer something for everyone in this well-rounded outing, and each piece had a handmade quality that was elegant, instead of crafty. At the very least, he has a distinctly hands-on approach to conceptualizing a new collection. Clearly there are still plenty of new places for his line to go.