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Prada Spring 2015 RTW

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It was a brocade blockbuster at Signora Prada’s catwalk in Milan’s Via Antonio Fogazzaro, for their Spring/Summer 2015. First thing’s first: the venue. One cannot disapprove of Miucci Prada’s interior transformation into a centralized room filled with peaked dunes of lavender sands and rust-colored deep pile carpets, surrounded with the spotlights. All the more spectacular, it was an experience that reflected on her 70’s trippy flashbacks. In contrast, the 30 different sorts of brocades dating back to the 19th Century were an unraveling exquisite beauty. Out came Gemma Ward – after a six-year hiatus, it was the industry’s beginning journey to witness Prada’s visionary time machine.

As Gemma Ward walked graciously down in the dark fitted double-breasted coat with an outline of contrasting topstitching, the 70’s sartorial codes were brought forth to the modern. These coats continued unraveling in all their brocade and contrasting topstitches glories, along with knee length dresses and skirts made from fraying tussar silks and paneled patchworks in lime or musty yellow worn beneath. Prada was not going to deny craftsmanship – not with frayed edges and jagged hemlines on sheer skirts. Though the more prominent accent were the choice of vintage-style fabrics that seemed more opulent than those of modern textiles: heavy damasks and the 30 different rich flocking brocades. Mixing and matching, trimming and off cutting, spliced into leather A-line skirts and patch working: those were the merrymaking movement behind those garments. Solely, odd footwear of high-heeled clog boots worn with pop socks had to be embellished as equally.

Prada’s merging of the past and the future were truly a magnificent spine-tingling journey. If one were to work with brocade as much as Prada did, it would not have been as dominatingly as an escapade as Prada’s Spring/Summer 2015 was. Crafted only by the couture specialist of womenswear, Miucci Prada, was a truly sensational sartorial time machine. (Text Nadilla Sari Ratman)