It is to be expected with Hedi Slimane. Or not. With the flashing fluorescent lights and metal scaffolding exposed, the Saint Laurent Slimane brought in this season was his vision of a New Wave of 80’s romanticism. If the designer was the wild child of the industry, then his women should be his wild punk rock groupies. Tapping into the independent music scene, as where he left off in January with his menswear, Slimane idolized the archive of the founding designer when he was still a young man, stumbling out of nightclubs in the wee hours of the night. Slimane’s reinvention this season revolved around the female counterparts that took part in the era of rebellion.
Saint Laurent’s women have always had an edge – a legacy known to be the first women to be dressed in men’s suits. But Slimane’s Saint Laurent’s women upped the definition of “having an edge”. The rebellious 80’s glamour consisted of leather leggings with thigh-high cutouts, black leather zip up dresses with slits revealing undergarments and other tight black minidresses with metallic shimmer that bared one shoulder opened. Slimane’s love for a rock-and-roll homage transformed into pieces of black leather motorcycle jackets, black leather ankle boots and lots, and lots, of patchwork furs and animal-print capes. Alongside the so-not-haute pieces laid Slimane’s secret message with the more fine pieces with intricate workmanship. These classic romantic pieces were seen in a black and gold cocktail dress consisting of polka dot beads and a single sleeve or the black one-shoulder split minidress with a huge white bow resting on shoulders. The amount of frills and tulles that sported that rock’n’roll chic dresses were Slimane’s characteristic of recreating what already exists. Thick eye make-up and whitened faces, the Saint Laurent women was sure to get some flirtation happening at nights with these pieces.
Creating a wardrobe for a good fashionable night out is what the industry needs. And it may have existed in the past, but only Slimane can pull off the resurfacing of such powerful fashion statements. Those who object may be unwary to the idea of a naughty night out, but those who are up for it, surely has the approval of Saint Laurent. (Text Nadilla Sari Ratman)