The London College of Fashion MA17 returns with an array of explorative themes – here, we spotlight 5 young designers you should know from LCF MA17 Womenswear.
The annual London College of Fashion Master of Arts returns as ten womenswear degree candidates showcased their collection at the Dutch Hall in East London. Alumni and renowned fashion director, Anders Sølvsten Thomsen, styled the show as he worked closely with the students. Fortunately, eager watchers and fashion enthusiasts are able to watch the show real-time as it was broadcasted and streamed on Facebook live for the first time this year. The different collections feature concepts and themes that are fun, futuristic, some compelling and explorative, others conventional and traditional, which have created a runway show that was eclectic and very interesting to watch. Some of those that we thought have stood out the most among all ten are below: (Text Beata Primana)
The Hungarian Gergei Erdei focused on antiquity and femininity in his collection. He was inspired by the shellworks of the Victorian era including the miniature sculptures that were put under bell jars. Dreamy-like palette and the romantic mood that the collection carry is contrasted by the use of materials that were scattered and what was defined as ‘cleverly crowded’. Themes and inspirations were also drawn from the ‘Sailor’s Valentines’. Sailors would give small, sentimental shell images to their lovers back in the 19th century. The inspiration drawn was part of a satire to today’s modern, and instant-gratifying love.
The quirky collection entitled ‘Mind Bending’ by the Chinese-born candidate introduces both minimal and futuristic looks. Drawing her inspiration from a photo series entitled Two Girls in The Garden, Meng wanted to portray a nonchalant, subtle and overly cool feel for fashion. As mentioned in an interview, Meng wanted “[my] collection to feel very futuristic and glossy”. This concept was translated quite well through her choice of glossy fabrics, oversized and quirky fit as well as the pastel and dreamy palette.
Yu Qing Lai
Yu Qing Lai’s Ming The Cap collection was inspired from London’s underground service where the candidate wanted to showcase the multi-faceted side of fashion, where both menswear and womenswear are interchangeable and versatile. In the interview she said that “[I] wanted to create a story about the women of the Underground and giving them an identity in their uniforms. I wanted to create a collection that shows the contrast between both genders but also show a woman’s personality.” The stark use of yellow as the color palette accentuates the entire collection as oversized tops, trousers and coats dominate the collection.
Wang was inspired by feminism and the feminist conceptual artist, Hanna Wick where most of his work was inspired by Hanna Wick’s sculpture, drawings and photography. Starting with a topless collection, Wang was inspired to do more of them – as a tribute to the theme itself. Other subliminal squibs from the collection were the accessories that were created as part of the look. The backpacks and shoes of which he refused to call them an accessory was created in response to the views of women against men. “I didn’t see them as accessories because for a long time, the female has been seen as an accessory to the male and I hated that idea.”
Heung expresses nocturnalism and sleepwalking in her collection. The Chinese designer is inspired by the difficulty of distinguishing reality from dreams. Her collection is dominated by colors similar to that of skin tones, draped, loose and elongated tops and bottoms. Heung also admits of getting influences from lingerie and vintage corsetry, seen through the use of drape, suspenders and bra extenders throughout the collection.