As the largest fashion event in the Southeast Asia region, Jakarta Fashion Week (JFW) is held annually and aimed to provide directions to the Indonesian fashion industry as well as a vehicle to demonstrate its wealth in talents and creativity. The sixth Jakarta Fashion Week was held in October 19th-25th at the Senayan City shopping mall in Jakarta in collaboration between the Ministry of Tourism and Creative Economy, Ministry of Trade, the Municipal Government of Jakarta, major stakeholders of the fashion industry as well as the media.
JFW 2014 involves many more designers, models and it has more than 75 fashion shows, thousands of looks, all indicating significant increase from last year which reaffirm its status as the largest fashion event in the country and the region. This year JFW has featured 240 designers/labels, 77 shows, 7 international designers, 3000 looks and 350 models.
After a full week, our editor create a highlights and curated some of the best local designers that represent a collection of ready-to-wear and jewelery at JFW 2014. Our assesment focused on the brand who grows stronger with every collection, and this one provided a glimpse into how extensive their collection can be. Another focus is a designer/brand who creates something innovative by combining best both of worlds and a sustainable business, and translate their passion by means of communication with their consumer taste.
Here we represents you the best local designers for the ninth collection of ready to wear and jewelery at JFW 2014. Exclusively curated by DEW Magazine. (Text Teuku Ajie and Melodya Lukita)
Olenka – Dewi Wangsa, a Creative Director of Ready-to-Wear based in Bali, Olenka believed of the cleverness of timelessness that showed from its swimwear dominant brand. The Spring Summer 2014 collection had showcased on CLEO Fashion Award 2014 and came out as the winner of The Most Innovative Local Brand. ‘Phylogeny’ which inspired by the underwater world got well diffused with its characteristic, hand-printed fabric. Combined with transparent skirts, blouses and trousers; Olenka gave twists to a limitless fashion in a niche product category.
TOTON – Toton Januar’s love for Indonesia’s diverse culture is apparent in his work for TOTON. The label aspires to highlight on exotic twists of artistry and wearability – incorporating Indonesia’s abundant traditional artisanship and ethnic, passed-through-generations handicrafts. For SS14, TOTON explores the relationship between Indonesian people and the sea. Visualized with traditional Indonesian motifs combined with sea creature illustrations by a German Biologist Ernst Haeckel are re-worked by embroidery techniques from West Java and Sumatra. Silhouettes, contrasting fabrics, textures, colors and masculine and feminine look are the key elements in the collection. The label also has made a strong mark in the business of fashion, which they’re very aware of how to communicate their brand and build a strong image in the market.
Patrick Owen – Since its launch last year, the label has been offering bold prints, intricate hand-stitched embellishments, and embroideries to provide an eclectic aesthetic that exudes a new definition of romanticism, and sophistication. With joining a new creative team behind the label, including Zico Halim (One of the promising creative talent in Jakarta), this label was heading down the right path. Their Spring Summer 2014 ‘The Sacred Journey’ narrated from the three beauties in the bible namely, Mother Mary, Bathseba and mytical Pope Joan. In this collection the label flirting with 3D embellishments, and digital printing to emphasized darkly romantic collection. Cropped embellished top is the highlight of the collection.
HARRYHALIM – Indonesian-Paris based designer has trail-blazed his star into ascendacy by honing his delicately crafted immaculately tailored vision of women since 2006 when he was crowned as a winner at the Asian Young Designer Contest in Singapore. Awarded as a Best Asian Designer of the Year in the following year, no wonder if he is regarded as the only Indonesian fashion designer ever accepted by Fédération Française de la couture, du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode and to present collections in Paris Fashion official schedule. With his distinctive modern-dark beauty-romanticism and aesthetic collection, he always carries out imaginative, deeply provocative vision through every pieces of his work. That case highlighted from ‘Vena’ SS14 collection, where the designer explores experimental fabrication to very feminine luxury sheer materials. Combining the semi-couture pieces and prêt-à-porter. Every pieces is designed in the designer’s Parisian studio with detailing craftmanship and represent the unique signature of the label.
Peggy Hartanto – This Surabayan-born woman began to involve more deeply in the world of fashion when she was taking formal education in fashion at Raffles College of Design and Commerce Sydney, Australia. She graduated with The Best Student award (Award of Excellence), majoring in fashion design. Her collections are known for their innovative and modern material cutting technique. Once again she represent her signature-style in her new SS14 collection ‘Quantum’ where she played with ruffles and see-through material which is applied to the unique silhouette. Her collection is one of the highlight of the season.
Rosalyn Citta – Graduated con laude from the master course in Instituto Marangoni Milano, she then deeper sharpen her sense of finesse. Debuted in Vogue Talents Corner 2012, Rosalyn Citta always present within the fluidity of her pieces as it has been one of her aesthetic. Bold silhouette plays an important role while its mélange textures and handmade quality deeper portray the artisanal value. For SS14 ‘Late Bloomers’ collection. Traditional heritage was at full display from the choice of of material, which was a bronze-coloured metal in transposed into modernity sleek designs and no coupling to create a smooth texture. This bridges the gap in the market for metal accessories, which is currently dominated by overly traditional designs. Available for retail at selective stores in Shanghai-Beijing-Guangzou, the brand is marching forward to the global fashion industry.
KLÉ – After completing his studies for a year at Esmod Jakarta, Kleting Titis Wigati graduated with honors ‘Best Pattern Making’ and she continued her studies at the Istituto Marangoni, Milan, for 4 years. Her great interest in art, music, and literature made her set up his own company and launched the label garment, KLÉ Divisione donna. In JFW 2014 Klé debut her Menswear collection which resemble immaculate wear. Giving the rebellious statement inspired by the late 1800 where American industrial revolution start, Klé played with more variations in their cutting and accentuating details represent the eagerness to be free, single color tones also creates a straightforward feel which inline with the story behind the collection.
Identité – The philosophy of elevating identity to the wearer have made doors of the industry open for two Designers/best friends Winny Christy and Jessica Yuri. After several achievements, Identité’s Spring Summer 2014 collection had revealed on Jakarta Fashion Week 2014 represented active young women whose demand a simplify sophistication outfit. With white color dominated, Identité designed structure of cutting in basic type garments in an athletic silhouette and various materials, again to uplift its main idea.
Massicot – Freshly started from this year, Massicot Jewelry has successfully grabbed many attentions on their distinctive material category to offer. Amanda Mitsuri and Ramdhan Muhammad Clasik are Product Designers that using mineral stone for the collection. Spring Summer 2014, they came with “Emotional Landscape” which brought sea bodies ambiance of clear blue sea gradation with natural waves to a striking collection in many shapes of necklaces, bracelets, and earrings. The infinite exploration of nature has become fashion magnificently.
CREDITS
Photography Teuku Ajie and Hilarius Jason
Styling Melodya Lukita and Farah Adisti
Hair Jeffry Welly
Make-up Sylvia Yohana
Photographic assistance Rojak
Models Kelly Tandiono at B-MGT