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Proenza Schouler Spring 2014 RTW

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  • Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez

Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez presented their spring 2014 with the understated domesticity and resulting sophisticated look of bohemian. They pulled out the ideas of interiors, looking at the ice-cool seventies interiors of architects and designers like Joe Colombo and Paul Rudolph, and the monumental organic furniture of the Brazilian Sérgio Rodrigues, and the North Californian J. B. Blunk. From vintage interiors like glass and chrome and white lacquer they mixed up with a shaggy Moroccan rug. And the result is minimal, warmth, and earthiness.

This starting point translated into almost monastically severe chasuble dresses and wide pants cropped just below mid-calf in suede and cotton crepe in a seventies palette of ecru, peach ice, cinnamon, and black, with fastenings that included chrome switch lock plates or ball-and-bar closures. Key pieces of the collection is clean suiting with an emphasis on a new proportion, pairing a longer line sleeveless jacket with cropped, wide-leg pants, and thick wood platform huarache sandals. The cropped shirt-and-pleated-skirt combination introduced for resort was a highlight of the show.

McCollough and Hernandez embellished their pieces further still with a whimsical touch in a collection that proved that inventive technique and fashion experimentation can be harnessed to the cause of desirable and wearable clothes. They may be pared down and modern, but they have a story to tell, namely the extraordinary creativity behind each piece. (Text Teuku Ajie)