Sciaparelli’s Latest Spring 2020 Couture is to Die for. Daniel Roseberry doesn’t disappoint as he dreams the same double-life fantasy as none other than the surrealist herself, Elsa Schiaparelli.
Schiaparelli’s spring couture collection this year is what Schiaparelli’s new artistic director Daniel Roseberry dubs “the sequel” to his first, in which he took to emphasizing the “double fantasy” of the house’s founder, the ever-fluctuating Elsa Schiaparelli. According to Vogue, the night before the collection’s presentation, Roseberry explained that the whole ensemble was a “crash course in all things… in Paris, in couture, in the inner workings of the atelier.”
Since his step into the fashion house, Roseberry has dressed Beyoncé’s red carpet look for the Golden Globes, and also made some other recognized red carpet fits. Now, after spending a decade at Thom Browne, Roseberry is aiming higher and higher. Channeling Elsa Schiaparelli’s duality in this line, Roseberry noted being inspired by old swimsuit photos of model Elle MacPherson from the 80s editions of Sports Illustrated, where he made multicolored, bodycon gowns with playful open backs. Accompanying the set were drapey silk dresses, an embroidered white pantsuit, skeletal jewels and rhinestone embellishments, and other silhouettes that ricocheted between the minimalist and maximalist. The collection was of course incomplete without the strikingly iconic pink, plus some beautiful pieces in ultramarine and viridian.
Other focal points of this collection includes a magnificent pair of chandelier drop earrings, a boxy tan spencer jacket, a coat adorned with the Schiap Sun King Lesage motif on the back — all of which are described by Roseberry as “psycho chic” and transmit propulsivity, exuberance, extravagance, rebellion, and ambition. As the day pieces become night pieces, exactly as Schiaparelli herself endorsed as she dressed herself differently by the clock, Roseberry adored the idea of an oscillating, magnifying introvert-extrovert personality with no in-betweens, no gaps to fill. After achieving a collection so uniquely Schiap, there’s much to anticipate for the fashion house thanks to Roseberry’s prolific vision. (Text Jordinna Joaquin)