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Christopher Kane Fall 2014 RTW

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Christopher Kane unleashed another blizzard of ideas for his Fall 2014 collection. Once again he proved his massive talent with arguable his best collection to date. More than 50 looks but never felt repetitive, was cohesive with plenty of variation and was wearable while offering looks that stood out. The revelation of the show was Kane’s killer tailoring, from the slouchy tuxedo that opened to the strong-shouldered, double-breasted coats dusted with crystals.

Central of Kane’s collection this time was Nylon, which had a dark, industrial undercurrent and was shown inside a vacant, black-painted office space. For nine exits, the British designer showed almost exclusively dark pieces: black sweatshirts, black topcoats, black skirts, all-black everything. He eventually injected a bright shade of lime green in the form of a knit sweater with holes in the arms accented by ruffles. One of Kane’s signatures is mad science. It was seen again by pieces whose “sleeves” looked like sinuous Plasticine forms into which the models’ arms were inserted. The creation of new forms is a challenge for designers in any discipline. Kane leaves us with indelible new images from every collection.

Perhaps the climaxed here was a selection of dresses that came at the end of the show featuring layer after layer of chain-stitched organza that spilled and trembled like damp pages from an open book. All in all it was a beautifully executed and sophisticated collection with some of the best cocktail dresses thus far this season. If anything, these clothes were fresh, previously unimaginable, and just forward-thinking enough to keep us guessing what this mad-scientist might bring us next. (Text Teuku Ajie)