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Issey Miyake Fall 2015 RTW

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A personal touch to haute couture is always inevitably jaw dropping and in Issey Miyake’s case that was Yoshiyuki Miyamae’s objective. Inspired by a childhood memory of kaleidoscopic recollection, Miyamae fabricated a collection focused on color and materials through its highly hypnotic depths. Throughout the seasons, there have been no less pleats and no less volume yet through the theme of “rhythmatic forest,” it was Miyamae’s excuse to enhance organic shapes and patterns to elevate the fashion house’s inner core. By harnessing 3D Steam Stretch, allowing the activation of pre-woven creases with steam to form 3-dimensional patterns, it was an intention to allow his garments to express themselves.

By using complex fabrics and hi-tech garment technology, Miyamae was able to fabricate 3D geometric designs of dresses and coats in a variety of extensive volumes as if floating on jackets and skirts. The matrimony of couture and technology allowed Miyamae to tailor slim pants tucked into boots and oversized blanket wraps graphically tinted in an Art Déco leaf prints. There seems to be more wearable pieces seen through sack dresses or modest tailored jackets, perhaps as it was grounded to a more natural approach but the mini skirts that sparked attention sent the kaleidoscopic array of color palette twirling around the runway, exposing the barefaced Issey Miyake perfection. The theatrics of the garments were as revealing as Miyamae’s untamed silhouettes that keep Issey Miyake at the top of its game.

Season to season, Miyamae creates his own path in showing the industry his true potential and with such ambition, turning Issey Miyake into one of the most hi-tech developed couture houses that may never set foot on failure. There is no doubt to say alongside the live soundtrack of Ei Wada of symphonies in electric guitars and singer Chiyako, Miyamae’s kaleidoscopes came to life to mark yet another uplifting moment in Issey Miyake’s history. (Text Nadilla Sari Ratman)