Maison Martin Margiela was slightly on the tip of subtlety this time round. With two major annual collections to star, Margiela’s “Artisanal” beauty in July is somewhat an obstacle of overshadow, yet nonetheless, this Spring/Summer 2015 still had a reason to shine under Paris Fashion Week’s spotlight. In terms of themes there are none in particular other than the classic androgynous mélange, hence seeming in the slightest bit monotonous. But one cannot disagree with the charm and feminine angle Margiela injected into the lineup, creating a refreshed take on the house’s artisanal prêt-à-porter.
Perhaps, Margiela’s idea of such a subdued concept was his ironic couture element to enhance an erogenous sentiment to the collection. Pieces fabricated with thinly veiled nudity through the hosiery sheath fabric stretched and slashed here and there. There were ideas of nude body suit bases mixed into garments, made purely from men’s suiting, with added panels and vests as backdrops to floral appliqué and asymmetrical flower prints on skirts, coats and lightweight dresses with ribbons tied at the waist. The pinstripe tailoring was another unique forte, with a resemblance of semi-finished tailoring, slashed and slit on shirts worn with cropped flares. On a more playful note, beautiful metallic floral were rendered on skirts wrapped around the thighs, as though slightly resembling beach sarongs and the brown leather fireman’s coat, adorned with hand-painted cheery daisies. Amidst the array of much bland pieces, a comeback of vintage Japanese fabrics from the “Artisanal” collection was crafted through slim dresses and skirts, and admirable pieces of long, gray cross-body coats, orange-tinted floral jacquard tops and wrap skirts made the collection the more unconventional.
It’s safe to highlight the erogenous attempt Margiela tried to embody into the lineup of a polished and engaging collection. Though it may not have been one that outshined July’s “Artisanal”, it was a collection of pure classic embodiment towards the feminine spirits – a little bit of class, a little bit of sweet, and don’t forget, a little bit of the skin! Some may like, but others: love. (Text Nadilla Sari Ratman)