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Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2015 RTW

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If Margiela lingered on subtle erogenous, Yohji Yamamoto took the higher road. “I wanted it to be sexy!” and what a pinpointed statement it was, Sensei Yamamoto. The designer has never given much favor to erogenous in latest collections, but there was no other conclusion that can be drawn from his Spring/Summer 2015, with the choices of sensual silks. It was the perfect setting for Yamamoto’s exceptional collection, as the French favored the concept as a “déshabillé”, by definition “a sweet disorder in the dress”. As these Yohji damsels-in-déshabillé strutted down the halls of Musée de l’Orangerie, the intimacy atmosphere was set off with the tracks of tango – sexy. The entire collection revolved around the display of delicate Japanese fabrics, a first for Yohji collections.

The total proportion of skin on display was most probably as much of a great consequence as the actual tangible pieces, though inevitably hidden from view by sheer workwear jumpsuits or untangled knit in plaid, which are Yohji’s favorable trademarks. There were fallen shoulder spaghetti straps, sensible long skirts though patterned burnt to extract the underlying flesh beneath, one-sided sliced tuxedos, revealing one full bared leg and gold satin slipping off shoulders as undone craftsmanship. There were lace-lined leather coats, gold sequins trickling down bared backs and laced-up silk sheaths that afar, might appear to be detangling, Yohji is still all about perfectionism. The final ensemble, though – the designer’s artistic act of resembling sexuality and flowers as two equal subjects, hence the wedding dress with a fresh bouquet of dahlias and orchids: “flowers are not always beautiful; nor are women. It depends on the conditions,” and certainly the designer’s point of remark of utter respect to the women’s body as a delicacy, amidst the soft-nudity lineup.

Though erotically daring, the show was still an absolute representation of Yohji Yamamoto’s brilliance. His respect towards the body was “when you show it too much, it becomes nothing,” and the grey area in between was the very essence the collection toyed with. And through the craft of opportunist designer, Yohji Yamamoto – ooohlala! (Text Nadilla Sari Ratman)

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