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Thomas Tait Fall 2015 RTW

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Thomas Tait lined up for his second collection after last year’s inaugural LVMH Prize win: 300,000 euros and a year’s worth of mentoring. There were a lot of themes at work in Thomas Tait‘s Fall 2015 collection: futuristic sci-fi dresses, punk accents on ’70s silhouettes, draping, and solids on solids. This season he’d planned a respectful continuation of his recent work, which is perhaps why his roomy, power tailoring felt a bit familiar, tweaked though it was with details like a pleated half-skirt or sailor’s bib in back.

This time was more like a deadly serious statement when no flash photography is allowed (The house would supply images later after the show). At first the models begin to emerge in total darkness, and then following bridges of light that lit up as they walked. The result was slow and obscuring, the top-lit effect meaning details slipped in and out of view, forcing concentration. Tait described his silhouettes ranged from loose and languid to stiff and sculpted. A sheer white nightgown dress with fluttery, elbow-length sleeves was romantic and slightly haunting. He did the collection’s struggle between restraint and release. There were pleated black shift dresses emblazoned with grainy screen shots taken from Dario Argento films contrasted with those profligate volumes. The collection then moved into more constructed and beautifully tailored with neat A-line leather coats featuring ring-pull zips and shiny panels.

That was a point he made very clear with his show today, the collection has major commercial appeal, which is perhaps something Tait is thinking about as he builds his brand and allows us to pay more attention into his growing vision. (Text Teuku Ajie)