McQueen’s legacy in Alexander McQueen Fall 2016 Menswear. It was dark, glamorous and romantic. The collection did a strong comeback.
Remember “Plato’s Atlantis?” Charles Darwin was there as a devolution of the last Alexander McQueen‘s show. Now Darwin’s reappearance again in the McQueen show, but in Fall 2016 menswear was more light and positive. This time he represented a spirit of discovery of an innate curiosity, curating the wonders of Nature. Sarah Burton drew of fossils on oversize silk reflected the collection’s Charles Darwin theme, while dark, oversize floral prints on velvet coats and suits. The butterfly jacquards and embroideries were also the collection’s key visual motif this season.
All the McQueen tropes were present, naturally. Dark, glamorous and romantic. For Fall, Burton’s McQueen men had their own contemporary savage beauty, with their pierced face, the Maharajah’s face jewellery and the silver talismans that ornamented suiting felt like souvenirs acquired from journeys to exotic places. The menswear silhouettes were clear and classic, with the militaristic themes were present thanks to some vast greatcoats, naval-style striped trousers and parade jackets.
By the end, it was a sort of fight between delicacy and rigor for Alexander McQueen Fall 2016 Menswear, and it was reassuring to see them make such a strong comeback after Spring’s irresolute offering. (Text Teuku Ajie)