Haider Ackermann Spring 2017 Menswear

Haider Ackermann Spring 2017 MenswearHaider Ackermann Spring 2017 Menswear was an exuberant, with the flashing spotlights and grinding music of a disco alfresco.

Haider Ackermann pushed his dandy aesthetic into a bright, bold, and beautiful in stature of young kids who want to dance and party without the heaviness of the world forever. His Spring 2017 Menswear collection was an exuberant, over-the-top collection, and all the stronger for its fabulous intensity, with the flashing spotlights and grinding music of a disco alfresco.

The collection had been inspired by the young guys around Mr. Ackermann itself, carefree hedonists for whom partying is a calling and a duty. “They dance in the club and they sweat and they enjoy,” Mr. Ackermann said. “I just wanted to have all this happiness, all this embrace of joy.” The joy Mr. Ackermann channeled was, he agreed, all the more valuable in uncertain, it’s so poetic against this melancholic moments in Europe in the last few months.

His signature tailoring was out in force. The eye went immediately to his terrific pleated pants, which were loose around the crotch, cropped above the ankle and draped or folded at the waist. They came in black — naturally — but suddenly, the bubblegum pink version looked a lot more appealing. 

The models slouched their circular course in a parrot-feather palette of pink, purple, orange and green — some in low-slung, droopy trousers; some in higher, tighter pants, their blotchily patterned shirts and scarves hanging loosely about them. The few female models interspersed among them wore mostly black. For Mr. Ackermann, the male wears the radiant plumage. This season Haider Ackermann’s man was part of a bright and beautiful gang, and without a doubt, it was full of energy.

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